Category Archives: brooklyn

Frankie’s 457 Dinner

Have I told you I love Frankie’s? I think I did here. I tried this shortly after I read that  we tried it a couple after reading that NYT food critic Sam Sifton’s best meal on the job was there. This time I actually had a chance to take mediocre photos of and so I have to share.
Braised Octopus with Dandelion Greens & Castelvetrano Vinaigrette
This is perfection.
Duck liver pate and arugula salad.
They were out of our favorite liver crostini  and the waiter suggested this.
It was definitely not a disappointment. Continue reading

Grimaldi’s New Location Photos – Brooklyn Closed Down? No, It Just Moved To The Corner

We went to have our favorite Grimaldi’s Pizza today but this was what we saw where it was supposed to be. Oh my god, did it close down? That news would have caused me to well up and start crying. At the old location a sign reads that Julianna’s Pizza is soon to open, “The return of Patsy and Carol Grimaldi.” What gives?
The Grimaldi’s Pizza restaurant that has been at 19 Old Fulton Street for decades moved around the corner to 1 Front Street, an old bank building that has the only cast iron facade in the area. Of course it took this move for me to look into its reasons. Grimaldi’s owner Frank Cioli (who purchased the restaurant’s rights from Patsy Grimaldi in 1988) lost his lease at the old location, including the use of the legendary coal brick oven that produced Grimaldi’s magical pies. Apparently Patsy Grimaldi is coming out of retirement to take the old restaurant back and naming it Juliana after his late mother. I love Italians. There’s always a family story! Continue reading

Favorite Things: House Marinated Feta from Brooklyn Larder

The tub was unremarkable, but the contents were not to be dismissed. Our friends the adobo makers raved about it when they lined it up among their treasures for our magical Vermont weekend.

 Brooklyn Larder is one of those specialty food stores around the corner from where I live. (Maggie Gylllenhaal is a frequent visitor and once touched R’s arm in gratitude for letting her cut the line. True story!) It has its arsenal of breads, pastries, cheeses and charcuterie, sweets and desserts. It houses the most delicious pistachio gelato I’ve known, and is also where one can get amazing ice cream sandwiches whose cookie sides are so richly chocolatey that you’ll forget its hefty $6 price.

The Larder makes it known that good food does not come cheap. At $9 a tub of marinated feta you can’t really complain. Four squares of Bulgarian feta soak in their rosemary flavored house olive oil. The oil is of a quality good enough to use on its own. In fact one only has to bust out a baguette along with the tub and you’d be all set for pre-meal grub.


I’m glad to have sampled it from friends because it’s not something I would have tried on my own. Ah but I did, so how can I turn back? The feta is not as salty as most but that doesn’t mean the taste isn’t long. It’s longer than a weekend line at the store.

Tomatoes, rock salt, feta and rosemary.
Feta, tomatoes, basil.

Don’t you love food discoveries? I’m going to add this to my list of local favorites which include The Big Gay Ice Cream Choinkwich, Uncle Louie G’s Chocolate Peanut Butter Ice Cream, Vermont Creamery Cultured Butter, Chocolate Room Banana Split, and Sottocenere Al Tartufo,

What are your favorite things?

Purple Yam Restaurant: Not Precisely Filipino

I’ve always wondered why there aren’t any Filipino restaurants in Brooklyn. Are Brooklynites’ palates too refined for the bold flavors of Filipino cuisine?

In years of cooking I’ve seen a lot of wrinkled noses when I say the words “fish sauce,” and have heard many complaints about the strong acid aromas of any good adobo in process. But I always thought it was a matter of real estate prices that there weren’t any accessible places where I could easily scratch a Pinoy food itch.

And so I was very happy to hear that friends had tried and successfully enjoyed meals at Purple Yam in Ditmas Park since they opened. Built by the Manhattan “Filipino fusion” restaurant Cendrillon‘s owners, NYT food critic Sam Sifton was actually pleased when he visited Amy Besa and Romy Dorotan’s new joint a few steps from the Q train in Ditmas Park.

After many friends raved about the new taste, and remembering Romy’s statement in the NYT article that most Pinoy’s don’t consider this their mother’s cooking, we gave it a shot and were pleasantly surprised. Purple Yam is a food experience that stands on its own, especially in an area where the closest competition is a bakery that sells cracked cheesecakes and Spongebob Squarepants cookies.

We began with the okoy, battered and fried vegetable fritters with big pieces of shrimp. It was hot and tasty served with a diluted duck sauce. Continue reading

Hong Kong Supermarket: Old-Fashioned Food Shopping, Modernized

The time I was a child was long enough ago that I still remember when there was no such thing as a grocery store in our suburban village in 1980s Manila. We had a refrigerator that worked but could not make ice nor keep ice cream frozen. It was a maroon White Westinghouse fridge that we go scolded for if we opened and closed it too often, and while we rarely had ice cream at home, the perk was that if someone did get an ice cream cake for his or her birthday, the whole thing had to be consumed on the spot.
The point of this reminiscing is the difference in cooking practices during that time. If I was home from school I would go with my nanny to the “wet” market in the morning for the evening’s meal. (It was really wet. We had to wear rain boots or soak our feet in rancid fish-washed mud.)
HK Supermarket’s Fish Section (no muddy feet here).
This practice disappeared when “super” markets rolled into town. Suddenly there were industrial sized freezers for meat, refrigerated shelves for produce,  and styrofoam tray-backed flash frozen fish from the closest port. We got a better fridge and shopped for a week’s worth of food at a time. (There was still no ice cream, but that’s another story.)

It’s not surprising in spite of these conveniences that many people still shop the old-fashioned way.  They go to markets to see what’s in season and create a meal plan from there. At least in New York and other Chinatowns in the US, there is still a market for fresh-for-the-day produce, meat and fish. You may still get fruit, vegetables, and seafood for a fraction of its normal cost – but don’t expect it to last. Don’t expect it to be pretty either. A lot of Chinatown’s markets are on the street or in tiny run-down stalls where an elderly gentleman gently prods you to take for cheaper a quantity much more than you will need.

For the shopper who has only recently discovered Chinatown delights, it would be refreshing to learn that establishments like Hong Kong Supermarket provide the medium in between street market shopping and a controlled supermarket environment where everything is organized and stored as opposed to the supplier-to-street system employed by sidewalk vendors.

Of course, some markup is inevitable. But since supply is great and demand even greater,inventory flies fast enough to maintain a cost comparable to other vendors, but with the convenience of a one-stop shop.

Hong Kong Supermarket (with branches in Sunset Park, Brooklyn and Elizabeth street in Manhattan) not only has competent produce and meat sections, it also boasts aisles of common Asian dry goods including many Filipino staples such as toyo, suka, tuyo, dried mangoes and Nata de Coco.

What more do you need? As an acquaintance often said, “Can’t complain a lick!”

 
The meat section. This is where I can reliably get slabs of pork belly, and only at $2.39/lb.
The vegetable section is large and complete as far as most Asian kitchens’ standards.
In this picture we can see Chinese cabbage, mustard greens, scallions, leeks, lettuce, mushrooms, been sprouts, broccoli and celery.
 A favorite treat is purple yam, a super-sweet yam perfect when baked wrapped in foil.
This sells for about $3 apiece at Fresh Direct. Here it is $1.99 a pound.
This must be the most diverse mushroom section I’ve seen, although they do not have the exotic specialty mushrooms, you have most of what you would commonly need.

 Fresh sea scallops and razor clams.

Escargot, anyone?

We must not leave out photos of our friends:

Live eels

Soft shell turtles

Frogs

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